Europe 2012: What Did I Miss?

In Italy:

The Bargello Saracino, 1579, Florence, or so I thought.

This guy, a good looking wooden jousting target constructed for rude Renaissance era festivities, captivated me during grad school. There is very little data on his history and the only book that mentions him at all is in Italian. Even though I didn't expect to meet him so easily, I combed through the Bargello, where he is a supposed resident, with no success. I tried asking museum personnel, in poor Italian I admit, but they had no idea. It didn't help matters that there is no artist or title, oh you know the Renaissance sculpture! Its status as a sculpture is even tenuous. Luckily everything else in the Bargello is spectacular. I'll be back to find you Saracino!

The detail put into this is so intriguing. 

Catacombs in Rome. 

Sad, but it was too damn hot for a walk along the Appian Way. Next trip to Rome will take place during reasonable temperatures. Oh, but aren't these early Christian paintings incredible?

Bearded Christ in the Catacombs of Commodilla

In Turkey:

Hagia Eirene, Istanbul, built in the 4th century.

Once in Turkey I learned that the Hagia Eirene is only open for concerts and there weren't any during the two weeks we were there. This former church is remarkable for its interior decoration, an unadulterated example of the Christian iconoclasm which lasted roughly from 754 to 843. All of the figural painting had been whitewashed, a common tactic less reversible than adding plaster which is what the Muslims did.

During Iconoclasm figural representation was criticized for encouraging outright idol worship from earlier Pagan practices. Crucifixes, vegetal scrolls, and Biblical text were used in favor of the well known characters.

Hagia Eirene, Istanbul

Lucky 13: Expanding My Apotropaic Collection.

I have only a few superstitions. One has to do with traveling. I must wear my flying outfit (leggings, knit dress, flats, and old, dirty, super soft cashmere scarf with a dozen holes in it) for every flight and be in possession of my travel journal (the second volume). These have been my apotropaic objects. One of my favorite topics in art history, apotropaic objects are thought to protect from danger or bring good luck and are found in many diverse cultures. 

I've become more flexible in the past few years since I've been traveling more than ever. On a return flight from Barcelona I dared to wear a comfortable silk dress with my new Spanish sandals. And I survived! Now I make a point to wear high heels whenever I fly. Might as well feel glamorous and trick people into thinking I'm a celebrity. It's the blonde hair.

Over the summer I saw lots of apotropaics, especially in Greece and Turkey. The evil eye! In both countries everyone was wearing these blue eyes as charms and I too began to wear one. 

Follow the nazar! Ataturk airport, Istanbul, Turkey

When we arrived at the airport in Istanbul one of the first things I noticed was a huge neon lit sign hanging from the ceiling with just the eye (nazar). At the entrance to nearly every shop or residence you see an eye. I began build my own collection of these protective objects as we traveled. Now I can't leave home without one of my eyes, a necklace with a mother of pearl eye inlaid with a turquoise stone. Since I got the necklace in Greece, it also has a cross on it. 

I believe that my ever growing assortment not only kept us safe on all thirteen of our flights, but also got us into first class on our way to Stockholm.

Alex shows off his own eye on Turkish Airlines.

First class space Istanbul to Stockholm! Note the old, dirty apotropaic cashmere scarf full of holes.

Recent additions to my collection include this rad double bear necklace. I spotted it back in October when we were in Schulenburg (the Eastern/Northern European settled part of Texas), but I didn't allow myself to take it home with me. 

It reminds me of the bears climbing the walls of the Czechoslovakian Krumlov Castle. I was surprised to find it under the Christmas tree and I've been wearing it religiously ever since. Thank you darling Alex!

Bear moat at the Český Krumlov Castle, southern Czech Republic. The castle was originally built in the 13th c., the tower is a Gothic era addition. Bears have been kept at the castle since 1707.

Kateřina and Vok (mother and son) play in the courtyard.

And then we went to NEW MEXICO!

(the eye and bears accompanied us). The trip coincided with the beginning of 2013 and while we were there the number 13 kept popping up, several times in mundane, but telling ways. We've decided that this is our protective, lucky number.

This was taken on our last day in NM. After encountering the number 13 several times already, I decided I should finally document. We were sitting at the counter of the fantastic Plaza Cafe (Santa Fe's oldest restaurant) facing this. I also had the most delicious tres leches cake there. 

But I want to talk more about the strong presence of apotropaic objects in the Southwest, a place which of course is historically a combination of Native American and Mexican culture. In Santa Fe I saw lots of milagros (literal Spanish translation: miracles, which are borne out through Mexican protective charms). These are typically forms of body parts pressed in tin. Basically if you need help with your arms, legs, heart, intestines, fertility, eyes (general protection), you carry a charm in the relative shape. Sometimes these charms are added to religious works of art as holy offerings.

Milagros at the International Museum of Folk Art in Santa Fe, NM.

Although these kinds of pressed charms are numerous in Mexico and Latin America, there are counterparts in many parts of the world. The first time I saw them in person was last summer in Greece. There they are called tamatas and are often found heavily clustered around icon paintings in churches.

Tamatas hang beneath an icon painting at one of the many Cycladic Island churches we visited.

Guess what? I'm obsessed. In Santa Fe, among lots of Mexican milagros, I found one of these Greek charms, almost exactly like the one of the eyes on the top right. It's from the WWII era and it's the first to enter our collection. The next day we went out to the Museum of International Folk Art. The website is a little outdated, but the museum is one of the best ever. It's the first international folk art museum in the world! Started by a woman who had lived through both world wars, it was meant to promote an understanding between cultures. This is still a relevant and needed effort.

My favorite was Alexander Girard's collection, "Multiple Visions: A Common Bond." There are no wall labels to interrupt the experience, which I think is great. The galleries are filled with lovingly arranged dioramas and the best way to be delighted is by taking it all in visually, letting your eyes catch on the sublime details. You can follow the guide books stacked up at the entrance if you'd like a bit of information.

Eyes are pretty universal and SO INTERESTING! I still want to write a book on eyes in art history. For now, please enjoy my documentation of these stunning works (which are mounted on silk!).

Girard's collection of milagros, votives, nazars, and tamatas from all over the world. I love it!

Italy.

India.

Wax votives from Italy.

Turkey (vintage nazar!).

Syria.

Italy.

Italy.

Morocco.

After drooling over these, we found little treasure shops and picked up a few more votives and milagros. We scored a vintage silver arm from Italy, a Mexican heart, and a tin hand. My one regret is that I didn't pick up a dream catcher. These seem to be the Native American protective gear. The only reason I didn't get one is because Alex claims that we need bad dreams as much as we need good dreams and I guess I agree. I did get some silver eagle feathers and vintage turquoise. These are also important to the Native American culture.

I can't wait to set up my little collection of charms and amulets and I definitely know I'll be looking out for more on future travels.

Coincidentally, this call for papers blurb popped up in my e-mail yesterday..."What work did objects do in medieval culture? What made an object efficacious? Art historians have begun to take seriously objects, including amulets, talismans, ex-votos, funerary effigies, astrolabes, eye glasses, decorative armaments, furniture, textiles, as well as the sacraments of the Christian church and a wide range of medieval counterfeits, that raise important questions of agency, efficacy, and authority." Sounds amazing. Too bad the deadline is next Tuesday. 

More details on why New Mexico is so awesome: next time!

Turkey Gets Back In.

Long ago as Alex and I discussed our dream adventure this is what the itinerary looked like:
Italy, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Israel, Egypt too I think.

We were going to visit all of the holy sites important to the Abrahamic religions. We started big, but eventually trimmed it down to Italy and Greece. No complaints! I've been thrilled, almost stunned, by the prospect of seeing the millions of exciting things there.

But wait.

A recent wedding invitation created a stir in our solid plan. All of a sudden we found our adventure nearly doubled. In order to attend a late August wedding in Stockholm we had to put Turkey back in the game. It's on the way! From Crete. Kind of.

Oh Hagia Sophia! Consecrated in the 6th century. Istanbul, the Bosphorus and Asia on the other side.

Originally a Byzantine church, then an Ottoman mosque, now secularized as a museum.

On this trip we will get to see both capitals of the Roman Empire. The Western capital city in Ravenna and the Eastern in Constantinople, not Istanbul. Justinian! While we're there we will meet up with one of Alex's colleagues and a woman that I used to work for in Philadelphia. And we're staying with an incredible Turkish artist who got her Master's (and her cat) in Boston!

There are going to be lots of adventures in Turkey. I know it! The Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque and the Chora Church and a cruise on the Bosphorus over to Asia, Nicea (Iznik), Bursa. The little guide book we have describes every other thing as magical. 

Blue Mosque.

The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, Byzantine Church in Istanbul.

Anastasis (Resurrection): Christ releases Adam and Eve after breaking through the gates of hell (see the locks and Satan's prone body), fresco.

Even though we feel that the trip might be going over the top now, we couldn't resist booking a short flight to Cappadocia, in central Turkey. We're still in our selfish phase.

Goreme in Cappadocia.

Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys! Goreme in Cappadocia.

We're staying in a rock cave house! I want to bike around all day and discover these temples carved out of living rock where Christians, while hiding from persecution, painted incredible cave church interiors.

I like that we are closing the trip with Sweden where it'll be much more relaxed in many ways. We'll get a break from the intense Mediterranean sun with cool Swedish breezes. Even though we have some friends to see in Istanbul, I think we'll appreciate the loving, down to earth rituals and celebration in favor of busy tourist activities. Plus a foreign language wedding!

There are a lot of things I missed last time I was in Stockholm, though. Mostly marzipan related.

I can't remember who these characters are, but they're beloved by Swedes.
Here they are made from marzipan.  

Çatal Hüyük, Werner Herzog, and Wall Painting.

This reproduction depicts the prehistoric village of Çatal Hüyük in Turkey (7500-5700 BCE) from an aerial perspective. All of the buildings were linked together and entrance was through the roof, so instead of streets on the ground, they were on top of domestic dwellings. According to some archaeologists, the brightly colored triangular form may represent an erupting volcano, Hasan Dağ, located just beyond the village. There is also some speculation that the yellow form is an apotropaic leopard pelt. This may be the oldest known map, but since the original Neolithic painting was found in a house shrine, it may also have some kind of religious significance. 

In Cave of Forgotten Dreams, Herzog points out proto-cinematic drawings in Chauvet Cave, France (32,000 BCE). No ordinary person will ever see these very important Paleolithic paintings, some of the earliest works of art, in person. Thankfully we have this film, which provides something close to the experience.