Moni Dafniou, Attica.

Today was a big day for this art historian as I got a chance to climb the scaffolding inside the 11th century Byzantine church here. The monastery and church, which stand on the site of an ancient sanctuary of Apollo, were severely damaged during an earthquake in 1999. The site had been closed until recently. Even now the hours are strictly limited: Tuesday and Friday from 9-2. As we headed back to Athens from the marina at Piraeus our lovely taxi driver made a detour (and happily accompanied us inside) to Dafni (Daphni, Dafniou). Photography is forbidden, this is no longer a surprise, but the plasma screen television that runs through a collection of photos captures the details of the Byzantine mosaics. These are photos of the screen.

We were able to see many of the mosaics, including the famous Crucifixion, but not the pantocrator Christ in the dome. I suffered a temporary heartbreak, but again this is something I'm getting used to. On one of our first days in Rome we raced to see Borromini's spectacular dome only to find that we could not enter. That first disappointment sent me into overwhelmed tears, but I'm seasoned now! We finally got in after the third attempt and it was stunning. Finding my way to certain works of art has often been, sadly, unsuccessful. I long to meet these. Later I plan to talk more about the things I didn't see, and the reasons why.

But here, notice the depiction of John baptizing Christ. It's a nude Christ! Very rare and beautifully done. Also, here is the dome mosaic and this new way of showing Christ, as a judge looming disapprovingly over the earthly realm. The detail work in the mosaics is incredible and loaded with gold!

The experience of climbing some unsteady steps to peek through support systems, discovering only bits of these mosaics, was a terrific thrill. All the while we could hear workers continuing the restoration process.

I am just now figuring out how to post remotely as I only have my iphone with me. Please forgive any irregularities while I learn more about posting from afar. I'm hoping to write a little now and then along the way. We've already been in Italy for two weeks and Greece for 12 days so there have been many, many remarkable things. I'm keeping track in my hand written Odyssey journal and I want to share here as well.

Tomorrow we travel to Mycenae and then Crete.

Turkey Gets Back In.

Long ago as Alex and I discussed our dream adventure this is what the itinerary looked like:
Italy, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Israel, Egypt too I think.

We were going to visit all of the holy sites important to the Abrahamic religions. We started big, but eventually trimmed it down to Italy and Greece. No complaints! I've been thrilled, almost stunned, by the prospect of seeing the millions of exciting things there.

But wait.

A recent wedding invitation created a stir in our solid plan. All of a sudden we found our adventure nearly doubled. In order to attend a late August wedding in Stockholm we had to put Turkey back in the game. It's on the way! From Crete. Kind of.

Oh Hagia Sophia! Consecrated in the 6th century. Istanbul, the Bosphorus and Asia on the other side.

Originally a Byzantine church, then an Ottoman mosque, now secularized as a museum.

On this trip we will get to see both capitals of the Roman Empire. The Western capital city in Ravenna and the Eastern in Constantinople, not Istanbul. Justinian! While we're there we will meet up with one of Alex's colleagues and a woman that I used to work for in Philadelphia. And we're staying with an incredible Turkish artist who got her Master's (and her cat) in Boston!

There are going to be lots of adventures in Turkey. I know it! The Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque and the Chora Church and a cruise on the Bosphorus over to Asia, Nicea (Iznik), Bursa. The little guide book we have describes every other thing as magical. 

Blue Mosque.

The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, Byzantine Church in Istanbul.

Anastasis (Resurrection): Christ releases Adam and Eve after breaking through the gates of hell (see the locks and Satan's prone body), fresco.

Even though we feel that the trip might be going over the top now, we couldn't resist booking a short flight to Cappadocia, in central Turkey. We're still in our selfish phase.

Goreme in Cappadocia.

Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys! Goreme in Cappadocia.

We're staying in a rock cave house! I want to bike around all day and discover these temples carved out of living rock where Christians, while hiding from persecution, painted incredible cave church interiors.

I like that we are closing the trip with Sweden where it'll be much more relaxed in many ways. We'll get a break from the intense Mediterranean sun with cool Swedish breezes. Even though we have some friends to see in Istanbul, I think we'll appreciate the loving, down to earth rituals and celebration in favor of busy tourist activities. Plus a foreign language wedding!

There are a lot of things I missed last time I was in Stockholm, though. Mostly marzipan related.

I can't remember who these characters are, but they're beloved by Swedes.
Here they are made from marzipan.  

The List Piles.

I'm still thinking of Italy and Greece and all of the goodies I'll get to see. This month is dedicated to the Renaissance so I'm really getting to (re)learn all about these gems in advance. 

*It's been a long time since I took classes on the Rinascimento.

San Lorenzo (with projected facade), Florence.

Mocking of Christ, Fra Angelico, 1438, San Marco Monastery, Florence, fresco.

Of course, the Renaissance is not complete without the Greco-Roman world!

Nike, 410 BCE, Acropolis Museum, Athens.

Arch of Titus, Rome.

Constantine, Vatican Museum, Rome. 

Other things I'm excited about!

San Clemente, 1120, Rome.

St. Mark's, 13th c., Venice.

Rape of Proserpina, Bernini, 1621, Rome.
Really looking forward to seeing this. 

 Primavera (detail), Botticelli, tempera, 1480. Uffizi, Florence.
Neoplatonism!!

Daphni Crucifixion, 11th c., Daphni Monastery, Athens.
Monophysitism? Two streams? So many questions.

Pantocrator, 11th c., Daphni Monastery, Athens.

I never really studied Botticelli before having to teach it this week. I had no interest in knowing more about his paintings, despite their obvious beauty, mostly because his are some of the few Renaissance paintings that are constantly reproduced (and drained of their meaning). I am happy to say that I have finally become acquainted with both The Birth of Venus and Primavera and I love them. They are even more beautiful now. I can't wait, CANNOT WAIT, to see them together. That blue behind the personification of spring is stunning and gives me a weird feeling that I like. Also, I realized that I will be able to see the above mosaics in Athens. Oh!

ITALY...GREECE...Only In My Dreams, But Not For Long.

Finally, finally after all these years of learning and looking from afar:

I'M GOING TO SEE IT ALL. 

RENAISSANCE: Masaccio's Trinity, 1427, Sta Maria Novella, Florence.

RENAISSANCE: Masaccio's Expulsion, 1426, Brancacci Chapel, Sta Maria del Carmine, Florence.

PROTO-RENAISSANCE! Giotto, Virgin and Child Enthroned, 14th c., The Uffizi Gallery, Florence.

BRONZE AGE, MINOAN: Knossos Palace, 1800 BCE, Crete.

MINOAN: Knossos Palace, 1800 BCE, Crete.

RENAISSANCE: Alberti's Sant'Andrea, 15th c., Mantua.

Commitments have been made and for 30 days and 30 nights I will travel back in time to:

Rome...Florence...Ravenna...Mantua...Padua...Venice
Athens...Mykonos...Delos...Thera...Crete

This includes works (most in situ!) from the Bronze Age, Antiquity, Byzantium, the Medieval era, the Proto-Renaissance and of course the Renaissance and even more and more! The Vatican, the Uffizi, the monastery at San Marco, the Pantheon, the Parthenon, Knossos Palace, Palladian architecture in Venice, maybe the lady in a red coat! Ah! I hope not!

I'm putting my lists together and planning to have several Stendhal experiences. Is there medicine for that? I need a suitcase full.

RENAISSANCE: Palladio's Redentore, 16th c., Venice.

BYZANTINE: San Vitale, 6th c., Ravenna.

Mosaics! Ravenna.

I can't even express how excited and overwhelmed and thankful I am. To my homeland!